For DMC No. 5 and No. 8 and for linen thread, I embroider with a single strand.
DMC No. 25 is sold loosely plied in 6 strands, so first I cut it to the length I will use (I find about 20 to 25 inches is easiest to work with) and then I pull out the number of necessary strands, one by one, and reassemble them. I embroider with 3 strands, unless noted otherwise here and in the individual instructions.
For instructions that use the term "variegated," I embroider with 2 or more colors threaded on the same needle. Blending colors is an effective way to add intensity and depth.
For projects that call for a couching stitch, I use 1, 2, or 3 strands of No. 25 unless specified otherwise; sometimes I call for No. 5 or linen thread. So as not to call attention to the No. 5 laid thread, I use a single strand of No. 25 in the same color to fasten it in place. When using linen thread for the laid thread, I use a single strand of No. 25 in a similar color to fasten it in place.
The correlation between embroidery thread and needle is very important. Choose an appropriate needle according to the weight of the thread, and always use sharp needles.
For projects, I worked in the center of a 12 x 15 inch piece of 100% linen. You can finish each project in various ways, but if you plan to insert the final embroidered piece into a panel or frame, then leave a margin of at least 4 inches around the pattern.
Always apply single-sided fusible interfacing (midweight) to the reverse side of the fabric before embroidering. This application reduces the amount the fabric stretches, prevents the stitches on the reverse side from pulling on the front, and dramatically improves the look of the finished product.
The embroidery patterns are shown actual size. To transfer the pattern to your fabric, first copy the pattern onto tracing paper. Then, layer Chaco paper (I recommend using gray), the tracing paper with the pattern, and cellophane on the right side of the fabric. Use a craft stylus to transfer the pattern onto the fabric.
Stretching embroidered fabric on a frame is a beautiful way to finish a project. For smaller projects, use a circular hoop; for larger projects, use a rectangular frame in a size that corresponds to the project.
Use a running stitch when you want to add a stitch but you want it t be inconspicuous.
A back stitch produces a neat and cleanly finished line of stitching. When working along a curve, make fine stitches. I use the stitch for leaf designs and the tips of stems.
A couching stitch is a good choice for embroidering fine lettering because you can freestyle your own lines. Or use this stitch to creat a vigorous stem with No. 5 floss. Work compact laid stitches for a beautiful finish.
An outline stitch creates line stitching that has volume and texture. You can also use this stitch to create a surface of stitches next to each other, such as those used to create stems and roses.
A straight stitch is a simple stitch, but it can make your embroidery come alive. Use it to work fine petals or the details on a plant.
I often use a split stitch to work a surface of stitches next to each other. Even on broad leaves, where the stitches overlap, this stitch is not bulky. Use a slightly longer needle for a flat finish.
A satin stitch is a perfect stitch for the flat and shiny aspect of flower petals. You can also use it for leaves. Create a nice finish by pulling all the stitches at the same tension.
I often use the stitch for broad areas like flower petals (such as pansies). Be sure to work stitches by bringing the needle up from somewhere outside of the pattern line, and then coming back down inside the line.
I mainly use the fly stitch for the calyx that encloses a flower bud. You can create different lengths of stem depending on the anchor stitch.
The leaf stitch conveniently includes the design of the veins on a leaf. The trick is to keep a V shape in mind as you work and you will end up with a leaf shape, ready made.
Use French knots for flower centers, small buds, or seeds. Knots can appear stiff or soft, depending on the tension of the thread. (shown with 2 wraps)
You can use a chain stitch to create line stitching that has volume by working a thin chain of tightly pulled stitches.
Use a lazy daisy stitch for small petals or calyxes. You can also combine it with a straight stitch to fill in the middle of the shape. Adjust the shape by shifting the tension of the thread.
From Embroidered Garden Flowers by Kazuko Aoki, © 2017 by Kazuko Aoki. Reprinted by arrangement with Roost Books, an imprint of Shambhala Publications, Inc. Boulder, CO.