Des Moines now has a new source for locally sourced meats and salami made and dried in house. The Good Butcher opened, tucked between the breakfast and lunch restaurant HomeGrown and Big Grove Brewery in the former Crescent Chevrolet building on Ingersoll Avenue in Des Moines.
Owner Calvin Schnucker, who previously worked at Old Station Craft Meats in Waukee as the head butcher, specializes in dry aging cured meats and butchering entire animals.
The cooler in the back is already stocked with four pigs and a half side of beef out of Guthrie County Quality Meats in Guthrie Center. "We're sourcing as much as we can through those local farmers going through the local locker, so that when people come in and shop with us, they're supporting us and our families and Guthrie County and their families and the farmers that are right there in Guthrie County, in that surrounding area," Schnucker said as he highlighted the meats. "It has this positive knock-on effect."
The meat counter at the front of the shop comes stocked with filets, tomahawk cuts, strips and loins, with a side cooler filled with spareribs, chops and more. Much of the meat is vacuum sealed to lock in freshness.
The pork comes from Kerns Farms/Mangalitsa Estates in Clearfield Iowa, owned by Steve Kerns. Upper Iowa Beef in Lime Springs provides the beef with the prime meat coming out of the Postville plant.
The Good Butcher is the only butcher shop in Iowa licensed to produce dry cured meats, according to Schnucker. Customers can see portions of the process.
In two weeks, the salami goes from just raw meat to almost salami. Of course, some dry aging, smoking and other tricks add to the flavor of each of the salamis.
After the salami is stuffed, it's fermented. "We're trying to lower the pH, make it more acidic, to inhibit bacterial growth," Schnucker explained. Then the salami dries in a cave with 80% humidity at 55 degrees, "basically the temperature of what a cave would be."
Normally, salami ages anywhere from 28 days on the small side, up to 60 to 120 days, Schnucker said.
Customers can buy them at the shop or at The Cheese Shop at 833 42nd St., Suite B, Des Moines.
Aside from cured meats, The Good Butcher offers pre-seasoned steaks, chops, and grill-ready marinades. Here's a look at what the butcher shop offers.
Sides: Chef Terry Boston is creating the side dishes on the menu that so far include herb-roasted potatoes, a mixed olive salad, and a superfood slaw during a recent visit.
"What we'd like to be is a resource for people who want to do more of a project on the weekends, but also during the week," Schnucker said. "If you're on your way out of downtown, you can come grab something that's pre-marinated. The sides are done. Stop in, grab it, and it's going to be local. It's going to be super fresh, super delicious, awesome."
Jerky: Find maple sugar beef or pork jerky vacuum-sealed in pouches.
Honey: Local honey comes from Bell Farms, which harvests honey from hives in Polk and Jasper counties.
Rubs: Schnucker uses rubs on some specials, such as a recent lemon pepper chicken, and sells A-Train's Mojo.
Turkey: The shop is already accepting orders for turkeys for Thanksgiving. Shoot an email to [email protected] to reserve a bird from Ferndale Market in Cannon Falls, Minnesota.
Smoked meats: For Christmas, The Good Butcher will offer smoked prime rib. More options are on the way.
Dried meats: Schnucker makes his own hot soppressata, salumi vino, and finocchiona in house. Customers can see the meats aging in the shop.
Deer processing: Doing some deer hunting? The Good Butcher can process deer and other wild game as well. Think geese, ducks, pheasants as well. The shop does not sell wild game.